KR-2S - Rick Hubka My old KR-2S Project

My KR-2S homebuilt Project is for sale (click here for details)

Check out > My Dual Control Sticks
in front of the spars... ???

These page consists mostly of pictures and short descriptions of my KR-2S construction in progress.

No this ones not mine. But it gives you a glimpse of a finished project.

Dimensions	Design Performance
Length: 16'	Take off distance: 350 ft.	Rate of Climb (gross): 800 fpm
Wing Span 23'	Landing distance 600 ft.	Service Ceiling 15,000 ft.
Total Wing Area 82 sq. ft.	Stall speed 52 mph	Engine: 110HP Corvair
Gross Weight 980 lbs.	Maximum speed 200 mph	Fuel consumption 3.8-5.5 gph
Useful load 460 lbs	Cruise speed 180 mph	Range 1000 miles
Baggage capacity 35 lbs.	Rate of Climb (light) 1200 fpm	Seating 2 across

So... you're thinking
of building your own plexiglass canopy eh

Check out this great story on how NOT to build a canopy

Pre-building preparation (1999)

When building a KR-2S, the first step is to construct a 16' X 4' workbench which I have done(see below). Notice my bench is covered in blue prints and manuals and books (there is more!). Reading and building the bench get you set to order your Sitka Spruce

Next we build 2 fuselage sides from 5/8" Sitka Spruce. Go buy more clamps NOW!

Here's a closer look just prior to using structural epoxy (T-88) to glue the joints and gussets into place.

Here's a real close look at the gussets and the neat Gusset clamps. The oak blocks are actually drilled and then tapped for the 1/4" screws.

Next we cut, fit and epoxy (T-88 epoxy) aircraft grade birch (or mahogany) plywood over these 2 sides. Be careful not to make 2 left or 2 right sides. I picked up the plywood on June 7, 1999 and wow is this stuff expensive. 1 - 4' x 4' of 1/4 inch and 8 - 4' x 4' of 3/32 inch sheets cost $800 CDN. The laminated ply's are 1/64 making the 1/4 inch sheet have 16 ply's.

I found the nylon strapping (see below) at Home Depot. It's called Caristap and is excellent and free for the asking to a nice shipping person. You can use it to minimize the dents made by the stapler. I used an electric stapler because I didn't want to get a sore beer hand. The strapping is also used to pull/pop the staples. It pops at least one side of every staple or your money back.

Here's a high level view and yes... I did staple the corner gussets.

I used a router with a flush trim bearing bit. Mmmm finishes it as smooth as glass.

Step 4
Now we do something I found very long, drawn out and tedious. Mounting, shaping, twisting, securing and cursing the two sides until they are held securely where you would like them to stay for the next 20 years. Be persistent and do not accept anything but a perfect and square fuselage (boat). This is the foundation you build upon for the next few years. If it takes many many days to get it right, that's ok. How do I know that?

Each cross member must be centre marked and measured for plumb to a centre line on your bench.

Here's another view

Then the next cross member, then the next. I always wondered why builders are always so happy to be finished the boat.

Here's the 1966 Corvair engine (110 HP) for my plane. Doesn't look like much now but it will be a beut after several thousand dollars of rebuilding/refurbishing is complete.
Hubka's future aircraft engine

It may look as good at Pat Panzara's complete rebuild here. Nice job eh!!!

Here you can see tail section spars and components before the foam and fiberglass are applied.

Next add the rough foam. Then I sand to shape following the templates. Then fiberglass.